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Humidity, air exchange, light, and temperature are all important factors to keep a constant watch on. Growing mycelium generates its own heat.
That being said, any casing layer is prone to some form of contamination, so it is generally a good idea to pasteurize it before applying to the top of the block. In order to pasteurize without changing the moisture content, I like to place it in a mushroom grow bag and simmer the mix in a pot for 45-60 minutes.
Casing is a non-nutritious moisture retaining layer spread on top of your mushroom substrate. It covers the substrate, holding in precious water and creating a micro-climate to help encourage even pin sets. Your casing needs to be pasteurized, pH balanced and adjusted for moisture content.

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If the mycelium fails to develop properly during the first two days, reduce the RH and CO2 more gradually. This will stimulate more mycelium growth. This helps, but only to a limited extent. In addition, if the casing soil still shows black during pinhead development, look between the clumps of casing for pinheads.
Does the mycelium need to grow in the dark? No, this is not required. Mycelium grows just fine in a dark place, and some daylight does not matter. Do not place the mycelium in direct sunlight, this will heat the substrate and it could dry out faster.
It will take approximately 5-10 days for the substrate to completely colonize with mycelium (you will be able to tell if it has completed colonization when the substrate has turned completely white).
7-10 days later your monotub should be well colonized with a layer of white mycelium and barely any soil visible. It is ready to fruit.
Generally speaking the optimal time is 16 to 19 days, but there are certainly also exceptions. If the compost is colonised in the growing room, it is left there so the mycelium stays intact.

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