Rub out effect in 600

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Aug 6th, 2022
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How to rub out effect in 600

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After the lacquer cures for a few weeks it can be sanded perfectly level and buffed to a high gloss. During those weeks, almost all of the solvents evaporate and the remaining solids get dry and hard.
You first might want to try to take the gloss down a bit using very fine steel wool, rubbing with the grain in long strokes. If done gently, it will not docHubly reduce protection. If that doesnt work, you have properly prepared the surface to add the satin coat.
Buff the surface with a very fine-grit micro-mesh. Choose a smooth, 12,000- or so grit sheet and rub in short, vertical strokes along the surface of your lacquer. Try to buff away any remaining marks or scratches so the lacquer can look as smooth and flawless as possible.
Use a sanding block, not the flat of your hand. Then mix up a slurry of pumice. Then you can finish off with rottenstone. Rottenstone is finer than pumice.
You have to wait until the finish is fully cured. A finish that isnt fully cured wont rub out well, and the risk of sanding through the finish is much greater. That means waiting several days for an evaporative finish like shellac or lacquer, and at least a week for reactive finishes like varnish.
How long must you realistically wait to rub? If you are applying only one thin coat per day in ideal drying conditions, you can usually rub solvent or oil based finishes to satin just a few days after the last coat, though waiting a week is better.
However, clear coats will always be prone to damage, and buffing is an excellent way to eliminate any imperfections. Its important not to overdo it, though; clear coat hardeners should only be applied if needed.
The finishing process can be easier when you use pumice stone or steel wool. These can remove big imperfections that were not able to be removed by sandpaper. They can also help in creating a sheen to the finish. After this step, use paint thinner to wipe down the lacquer finish.

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