Darken frame in DWD

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Aug 6th, 2022
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How to darken frame in DWD

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How to Take Dark Frames Place the dust cover back on your telescope or camera lens. Cover the viewfinder to prevent reflected light hitting the camera sensor. Take the images using the exact same settings and in the exact same conditions that you used for your light frames.
There are 4 types of calibration frames that we need to use: Darks, Bias, Flats, and Dark Flats. Dark frames are used to correct for hot pixels on the image sensor and sensor heat noise, which includes any amp glow from the sensor.
Light frames contain the image you are trying to capture. I typically capture light frames for 5 to 10 minutes. This typically results in at least 30 light frames. Dark Frames are exposed at about the same time as the Light Frames and with exactly the same exposure settings (ISO and duration) but with the lens cap on.
Put simply, dark frames capture the random thermal and electronic noise of the camera sensor and, via stacking software, allow us to subtract it. This reduces the noise in our image, to give us a helping hand for processing.
Ideally darks need to be taken within 2C of lights, +2 difference will correct about 125%, -2 difference will correct ~80% of thermal FPN . If taken at much warmer temperature, you will end up overcorrecting. Dark current doubles every 6C.
Regarding the number of darks: that is a point of a lot of discussion. Some people claim you need over one 100 though I have read reports where only 20 were deemed sufficient. A general rule of thumb seems to be between 50 and 100 though it depends on the camera used.
Either close the shutter or cap your telescope. Bias frames should be recorded at the same temperature as your light frames (the actual exposure of your target), and using all the same camera gain or ISO settings. If you take your biases during the day, be careful that there are no light leaks getting to your sensor.

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